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Anchoring boats
using kellets, sentinels or Anchor Buddy anchor
weights
dispelling myths on
misuses and misconceptions
Lowering a heavy weight down the anchor line
after anchoring gives extra security at anchor
and reduces the risk of the anchor
dragging.
Sailing ships did not have a motor, so if
caught on a lee shore, pigs of iron were lowered
down to increase the catenary of the anchor
line. Even the Phoenicians used a ‘catenary
stone’ over 2000 years ago.
Generations of boat owners have instinctively
known that a concentrated, heavy weight
suspended from the bow and positioned off the
seabed, is far more effective than letting out
even more warp or chain when it blows. It acts
like a lot of extra chain but the forces on the
boat have to overcome and lift the whole mass,
before exerting any pressure on the anchor.
Rocks in sacks, buckets of lead, coiled up
chain, dive belts or even second anchors have
been shackled to the chain, when the integrity
of the holding power of the anchor is in
question.
Would
boat owners continue to do this if the principle is
ineffective?
'New
generation' anchor designs
continue to improve the setting and holding
capacity. However, no matter what anchor you use, the shank of it still
lifts with the 5 points of motion - pitch,
surge, heave and yaw, recognised anchoring expert, Earl Hinz talks about in his book "The Complete Book on Anchoring and Mooring".
Some anchor designers are now convinced they are
experts in all things anchoring. They question
the effectiveness of using kellets,
sentinels and anchor weights and encourage
boat owners to use
a larger anchor to get a similar effect.
Boatmaster
and Yachtmaster courses teach that you must use
the correct size anchor for your vessel. You
must have at least the length (if not 1.5 times)
of the boat in good size chain and anchor with a
scope of 5 to 1 in normal anchoring conditions. That is 5 times the depth of water at high tide,
plus the distance of the waterline to the bow
roller. When it blows, it is recommended that
the scope be increased to 7 to 1.
While some
vessels have an anchor that is far too small,
other boat owners carry huge, oversized anchors,
especially when they have had difficulty with
anchoring. We
believe you should ask the manufacturer of your
vessel what size of anchor is right for you and
use an anchor weight when you want extra
security and comfort on boat when it is blowing
hard.
Anchoring techniques, which anchor is best
and whether to use an anchor weight are topics
with equal amounts of harsh critics and most
ardent supporters. Discuss these with world
cruisers and family boat owners and you will get
a different answer from anchor manufacturers,
armchair sailors or those who sit behind a
computer and work on formulae. It has a lot to
do with anchoring experiences and personal
opinion. Those who use anchor weights swear by
their effectiveness.
Dispelling myths on
misuses and misconceptions.
Myth
It is said (in one anchor designer's 'knowledge base') that "anchor
weights make little practical impact on the rode
when conditions are such that the anchor is
likely to be troubled". Misconception.
Why do we let out more warp or chain when it
blows? A heavy anchor weight, in a concentrated
form, is even more effective than letting out
more chain when it blows. The forces on the boat
have to overcome and lift it, before any
pressure is put on the anchor
"When
anchoring in foul ground which we do regularly
when scuba diving, we always let a generous
amount of chain out, deploy our Anchor Buddy and
dive down the anchor chain to check the holding
power. Since deploying the Anchor Buddy our
observation in a variety of sea conditions, is
we have observed NO WEIGHT AT ALL PULLING ON OUR
DELTA ANCHOR. With the motion of the boat having
to contend with the anchor weight and chain, we
have never witnessed our Delta anchor
working".
Merv Dobbs,
Whiting 47ft world cruising yacht.
Myth
It is
also said 'the sole use for a kellet is to minimise the
swinging circle, but this only applies in
light to moderate conditions'.
Misconception.
Wind gusts, the action of waves and wakes, the boat swinging wildly or
sailing around at anchor in any weather, can raise the
anchor shank and cause the anchor to dislodge.
Do
we disregard the following findings by published
experts, in favour of the 'new generation'
designers of 2009?
Charles F Chapman, in his book “Piloting and Seamanship and Small Boat
Handling 1961” (regarded at that time as the
Boater’s Bible) says "If you have reason to doubt that your main anchor is going to hold
in a heavy blow, you can increase its holding
power by sending a kellet or sentinel down the
anchor line...reduced the maximum anchor
load nearly 50%."
Earl Hinz also says “the function of the kellet is to steepen the
initial drop of the rode (warp) and to flatten
it out on the sea bottom to decrease the anchor
lead angle”.
Tests have shown that the correct size anchor of
any reputable design pulled horizontally is more
likely to hold than an oversize anchor pulled
upwards.
Here
is what the Royal Navy says about
anchors dragging
Anchor designs continue to improve but the
shank still lifts with the 5 points of motion
Earl Hinz talks about - pitch, surge, heave and
yaw.
Again,
in his book Earl Hinz
says that the wind creates yawing (swinging) and swaying, the waves
create pitching and heaving, and the anchor
restraint is involved with surging. Surging of
the boat sometimes as much as doubles the loads
felt from the wind drag alone. A vessel snubs
when her bow lifts to a sea and the chain is
pulled taut with a jerk.
When the shank is pulled above horizontal, the efficiency of the anchor
is greatly reduced. If the angle of pull is 10
degrees off the seabed, the anchor's maximum
holding power is down to 60%. At 15 degrees, it
is further reduced to only 40% of its maximum
holding power. The additional pull when a
ship yaws (swings) is considerable. (Royal Navy
Admiralty Manual of Seamanship Vol.2).
We are all aware that it is vital to keep the anchor shank and as much chain as possible, on the
seabed. This ensures the pull on the anchor is
horizontal, rather than vertical. This is why so many boat owners now prefer all chain anchoring.
Having an all chain anchoring system can help, but chain
spread across the seabed still lifts relatively
easily. It is also possible to let out
even more chain or rope warp in these situations
to increase the catenary, but that results in
the boat swinging in a wider arc.
Interesting that the all chain Anchor Buddy
anchor weight outsells the other models by 4 to
1!
Very few cruising boats that head off to the
Pacific each year leave without one on board.
Hold your fishing rod and reel by the tip end. This usually light piece
of equipment is now quite heavy to lift up. It
is simply a matter of leverage.
Mathematical
formulae prove that the heavier the weight, the
more effective it is. Sail Magazine tests have
shown on the recommended anchoring scope
of 5 to1, it takes a horizontal force of 147lb
to lift a 30lb weight off the seabed.
"I
dived down to see the Anchor Buddy working. The
angle change of the rode induced by the Buddy
was significant - I estimated it to be between
20 and 30 degrees. The weight was serving as a
spring, absorbing the weight of the boat in the
gusts and leaving the critical section of the
rode leading to the anchor unmoved. I took the
Buddy off and dived back down to see the
difference. The length of rode on the bottom
was some three metres less, but more
importantly, the movement of the rode was more
pronounced, as was the movement across the
bottom as the boat swung - just the things that
are likely to pop an anchor in questionable
holding. I WAS SOLD!" Independent gear
test by Editor of Boating World magazine
An anchor weight

The
alternatives when it is blowing hard and the anchor's
holding power is in question...
You can get in the
dinghy and set two
anchors and hope the wind does not change
direction
or attach and lower your dive belt, a home-made
lead weight, bucket of rocks or a heap of
chain in a sack...
the principle is exactly the same. These methods all keep maximum chain on the seabed.
But
- do you
really want to be in the dinghy
or on the bow using spanners and
shackles when it is blowing a
gale and the boat is pitching and
rolling?
- should you
really risk using your second
anchor in case of further
difficulties?
These purpose designed
weights can be simply twisted
on or off in less than a minute-
no tools are required. Speed is really
important if you have to move the boat in
a hurry.
We have lots of test results -carried out in real situations as well as
computer simulations, that prove the
effectiveness of an anchor weight. The technical article on John's Boat Stuff
website gives
all the formulae needed and you can see them here
However, we feel the very best recommendations come from experienced world
sailors.
Read their letters here.
These boat
owners are anchoring in many different
anchorages and conditions, not simulating them
sitting at a computer. They know their anchor
weight makes a difference and that gives them
invaluable peace of mind.
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Using
an anchor weight is a VERY
OLD IDEA - the Phoenicians used a 'CATENARY
STONE' 2000 years ago!
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